Greg Long: Puerto Escondido July 6th. One of the most humbling sessions of my life. After not making my first wave of the morning and being washed to the beach I made 3 attempts to paddle back out through the lineup only to catch another set on the head and be washed back every time. Walking back to the harbor to make the long paddle out again, body and ego bruised and battered, this set came through. This is the kind of wave I have dreamed and sought to ride here in puerto for over a decade. It was hard to watch this thing from the beach but so incredible to witness at the same time. As perfect as a big wave gets, I’m going to mind-surf this one until the real day comes… Photo: Miguel “westside” Diaz via Instagram on Surftagram.com
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